Otherwise

Another hot, humid day as we walk to the local research zoo. The research park/zoo opened in 1984, and includes lovely old buildings surrounded by rainforest. The sunlight barely reaches our skin as we walk through the natural canopy of the forest. Sweet, shy cat-sized rodents called cutia run across our path.

There are aquariums full of turtles, big and small, who just like in Dr. Suess’ book Horton Hears a Who, pile upon each other in shelled-back towers. In many aquariums, caiman (crocodiles) lay and swim with the turtles in a peaceful co-existence. There is a large, smooth, anta with a snorkeled nose and sharp pointy teeth. The anta seems gentle and mild mannered until a lithe green iguana stands in its path, and the large creature urgently stampedes towards the reptile. The iguana flees, and appears frightened but thrilled, like a teenager who runs from a heavy handed officer. We see several furry sloths in the trees above us, as still as the branches they curl upon.

We find a small pool with gigantic lily pads, larger than a car’s tires, and strange fuzzy slipper-like flowers. There are more animals to be seen: the impressive but lethargic spotted jaguar who meows like any domestic housecat, the vicious harpy eagles, and the giant river otter that moves like liquid.

After dinner (a per-kilo buffet affair), we order cupaucu gelato. We have been told that cupaucu is the tropical fruit to end all tropical fruits, and we are therefore curious. The fruit tastes powerfully like vanilla, nuts, fruit and a note of marzipan all in one. It is good, but unlike anything I’ve ever eaten. Its texture is gooey like a gummy worm.

Back at our hotel, we take the bar of laundry soap we bought and wash our clothes by hand in the sink. We feel proudly like world travellers now, ready for the banks of the Ganges or an African river. We hang our clothes on the railings of our room’s loft, and head for bed…